your puppy is not a dog
what does that actually mean, though?
Puppies are babies. dogs are adults. as with human development, we have to approach babies differently. This seems like an easy concept to grasp, right?
It’s not easy to practically apply, though. especially when there are so many voices telling you about all the things you urgently need to do with your puppy. it is easy to lose sight of the joy, the silliness, the special laziness of puppyhood. there are lists…. and lists… and lists….and lists
I know…. it’s SO MUCH!
Here’s the thing, though:
attack this like a serious job, and you risk missing most of the value for your puppy
this is because the real value of puppy socialization is in quality experiences and in repeated exposure, not in the number of things you can check off
Quality: you have to find a way to make the exposure fun for your puppy. in the end, your puppy should be very comfortable with the things you expose them to. this means not shy or avoidant but also not overwhelmed with excitement and unable to think. short, pleasant, simple exposure is far better than just ‘powering through’.
Habituation: repeated exposure to things at a very low level should result in the puppy not caring, not noticing those things so much. the first time your puppy hears dishwasher sounds, it will be pretty surprising. as long as the puppy is repeatedly exposed from a safe distance, they will not even notice or care: your puppy has ‘habituated’
One easy and fun thing you can do to cover a lot of bases:
Puppy Tailgating Party
Go to a new location with your puppy in a crate with a chewy to keep them calm and busy during the ride.
Your gear checklist:
soft walled crate, carrier or cozy covered bed
harness and leash
puppy blanket
snuffle mat or easy puzzle feeder
toys and treats (at least two of each)
a long-lasting chewy (frozen food toy or dried edible item like a tendon)
water and water bowl
Puppies habituate to things when they are exposed in ways that are not intense (for the puppy). they sensitize when things are intense. things feel intense when they last too long or the puppy is trapped too close. over time, you should see your puppy react to the same things in the environment more calmly if you are doing this right. if you do not see your puppy relaxing, make it less intense.
You can improve the quality of the exposure by allowing for frequent breaks and by effectively pairing new things with fun things.
When you arrive, open the back of your car and set up the tailgate party: snuffle mat with treats, blanket, water bowl and a few toys. Bring your puppy in the crate to the back of your car and open the crate so your puppy can come out if they want to.
After 60-90 seconds, trade your puppy for the chewy if they have not left it on their own (ask your trainer if you do not know how to easily do this without force).
If you need to, have a leash on for safety. Feed your puppy in their crate once in a while until they come out on their own. if you like, you can try feeding one treat 2-5 inches outside the crate and the next treat inside the crate over and over again until your puppy is comfortable entering your 'tailgating party' area on their own.
Do not force or lead your puppy with treats out of the crate. allow your puppy to come out and investigate on their own if they want to.
Once the puppy is out in the back of your car, sit and watch with your puppy. observe body language and curiosity. make sure your puppy is able to eat and play with toys. if not, give your puppy a break with their chewy in the crate for 3-5 minutes and then start again.
After 5 minutes of tailgating, close up the car and give your dog their chewy for break-time. play some relaxing music, set your timer for 2 to 5 minutes and check your email or just relax with your puppy. then open up the car and start again.
When your puppy is comfortable with the smells, sights, and sounds in the area, they will come out of the crate when you open it and they will quickly move to investigate the toys and snuffle mat you have set out for them. their body will be soft and wiggly. their mouth will be relaxed. this is when you can move the 'tailgating party' to the ground near your car. move the soft-walled crate and blanket to the ground close to the car. start the process over again, with toys on the blanket. you can use grass as a snuffle mat. make sure to take breaks in the crate or back in the car frequently.
Make sure you know what to do when there are sudden or surprising or even scary things for your puppy (check with your trainer and make sure your skills are good for “Open Bar - Closed Bar” type games before you go out)
Spend 15-30 minutes on these socialization trips, always based on your puppies ability to enjoy.
tips
stop if you see any signs of shutting down.
focus on puppy exploring, offering a wide variety of behaviors: chewing, watching, sniffing, playing, taking chances, being silly.
puppy should NOTICE but not FIXATE on things in the environment (both things in the environment, but also food and toys). if puppy is not noticing the environment and is fixating on food or toys, lower the intensity of the food/toy (not tripe, kibble; small bits, not big chunks) or the frequency (longer breaks between deliveries, more 'blank space' in the snuffle area, longer breaks in toy play).
Instead of using a list from the internet as-is, spend time with your trainer thinking about about your lifestyle and your life-long plans for your puppy and your family. ask your trainer to help you personalize and prioritize your socialization plan based on that. make sure your trainer helps you read your specific puppy's body language, get good at basic training skills, learning how to play with your puppy, and setting up confidence building, frustration tolerance,and arousal management.
Dogs of any age can learn fancy skills but you have one chance to give your puppy this emotional comfort with the environment as their baseline.
It does not have to be overwhelming and scary.
It should be fun. if you want help, get in touch!
